El arco de triunfo mandado a construir por Luis XIV.

El arco de triunfo mandado a construir por Luis XIV.

La ciudad meridional francesa de Montpellier se enorgullece de tener la facultad de Medicina más antigua del mundo aún abierta. La idea surgió en 1181 cuando el señor Guilhem VIII autorizó la enseñanza y el ejercicio de esta disciplina. Más tarde, en 1220 el cardenal Conrad d’Urach concedió a la llamada Universitas medicorum sus primeros estatutos, y en 1364 el papa Urbano V, que había sido profesor en esta ciudad, tuvo la idea de construir un monasterio benedictino en el lugar en que hoy se halla la prestigiosa escuela de galenos, para recibir a monjes y estudiantes. Entre los grandes nombres de las Ciencias y las Humanidades que pasaron por sus aulas se encuentran Rabelais y Nostradamus.

El imponente palacio de la Prefectura de Montpellier.JPG
El imponente palacio de la Prefectura de Montpellier. Fotos cortesía/William Navarrete

La Universidad se visita concertando cita con la Oficina de turismo local y en ella pueden verse unas 11 000 piezas anatómicas, centenares de manuscritos medievales, incunables y tratados de medicina. También la más antigua herboristería de Francia y un jardín botánico creado por el rey Enrique IV en 1593. Para los hispanoamericanos esta noble institución tiene gran importancia pues fueron muchos los médicos de ambas orillas del mundo hispano que obtuvieron su título en sus aulas. El Conservatorio de Anatomía es un sitio del que uno no sale indiferente. Entre órganos afectados expuestos en formol, patologías reproducidas en cera y enfermedades en tercera dimensión hay de qué asombrarse y reflexionar.

Por suerte, a unos escasos metros de allí está la Catedral San Pedro, imponente edificio austero construido en el siglo XIV y cuyo portal se asemeja más a una fortificación que a un templo religioso. El interior atesora algunas pinturas del Renacimiento y el antiguo claustro del monasterio precedente, integrado a la Catedral.

La catedral fortificada de San Pedro.JPG
La catedral fortificada de San Pedro. Fotos cortesía/William Navarrete

Detrás de ambos edificios, en un jardincillo que se encuentra casi enfrente del Jardín de Plantas más antiguo de Francia, puede verse la Torre de los Pinos, uno de los últimos vestigios de la muralla medieval que rodeaba el burgo de otros tiempos, junto con la llamada Torre de la Babote, un poco más lejos y de la misma época.

A toda esa parte de la villa se le llama el “Ecusson”, por su forma de escudo. Hay que perderse entre las callejuelas, tomar un café en la vieja plaza de la Canourgue, visitar el mikvé o antiguo baño ritual judío del siglo XII (uno de los más antiguos de Europa), recorrer la avenida Foch cuya perspectiva cierra un Arco de Triunfo mandado a construir en 1691 por Luis XIV para celebrar sus victorias y empujar las puertas de los palacetes de la nobleza del Antiguo Régimen para impregnarse de la atmósfera particular de esta sección del casco histórico.

La estatua ecuestre de Luis XIV en el paseo del Peyrou.JPG
La estatua ecuestre de Luis XIV en el paseo del Peyrou. Fotos cortesía/William Navarrete

Me tocó recorrer el laberinto de callejuelas con Paola Domingo, profesora de la Universidad Paul Valéry a la que había sido invitado para hablar de literatura y exilio, cuando un pequeño grupo de manifestantes opuestos al carné de vacunación de la Covid-19 creaba mucho revuelo lanzando gases lacrimógenos y fumígenos por todas partes. En ese momento pude darme perfecta cuenta del intrincado trazado del casco porque en lo que intentábamos escapar del efecto nocivo de los gases caímos en varias ocasiones en el mismo sitio de donde tratábamos de huir.

A pesar de este anecdótico contratiempo pudimos entrar la vieja pastelería Lo Monaco, de la calle Jean-Jacques Rousseau, cuya especialidad son los chaussons de diferentes frutas, una especie de empanada rellena de compotas; visitar la encantadora juguetería Pomme de Reinette; la fabulosa librería La Géosphère, especializada en literatura de viaje; así como el curioso museo Atger, en el que se exhiben unos 6000 diseños y estampas de Rubens, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Donatello, Poussin, Watteau y Fragonard, entre otros genios de las artes plásticas.

De este modo llegamos a la celebérrima plaza de la Comedia, epicentro de la vida montpellerina, con su elegante teatro de la Ópera construido bajo la dirección de Charles Garnier a finales del XIX y la sensual fuente de Las Tres Gracias, cuyo original de fines del XVIII se encuentra dentro del teatro.

La fuente de Las Tres Gracias en la plaza de la Coledia.JPG
La fuente de Las Tres Gracias en la plaza de la Coledia. Fotos cortesía/William Navarrete

Al final de la plaza, una alameda a la sombra de árboles centenarios constituye uno de los paseos preferidos de los locales. A ambos lados de su recorrido pueden visitarse el Pabellón Popular, donde se exhiben con frecuencia muestras de fotografía y el imprescindible museo Fabre, con una impresionante colección de pinturas en la que no faltan los pintores españoles como Zurbarán o Ribera, los franceses como Ingres y Delacroix, entre decenas de italianos, ingleses y alemanes, desde el Renacimiento hasta las Vanguardias del siglo XX. Y a un costado del museo, el hermoso palacete de Cabrières-Sabatier acoge el Departamento de Artes Decorativas del Fabre, con particular énfasis en el mobiliario, las cerámicas, la orfebrería y otros objetos de arte de diferentes épocas y estilos.

Del lado opuesto a la alameda, entramos en una parte del llamado “Ecusson” en que pueden apreciarse fabulosos palacetes renacentistas y clásicos. Vale la pena recorrer el barrio de la iglesia Saint-Roch, atravesar la calle del Antiguo Correo, merodear por el antiguo Halles (Mercado) de Castellane, llegarse hasta la animada plaza Jean Jaurès y darse un salto hasta La Panacée, que no es más que el antiguo Colegio Real de Medicina, convertido hoy en museo de arte contemporáneo, al igual que el antiguo palacio Montcalm, de la calle de la República, que forma también parte del conjunto de edificios bajo la égida del Mo.Co o museo contemporáneo.

Una encantadora plazuela del casco antiguo o écusson.JPG
Una encantadora plazuela del casco antiguo o écusson. Fotos cortesía/William Navarrete

Tiene Montpellier un mítico parque ajardinado llamado Peyrou, diseñado en el siglo XVIII alrededor de una imponente estatua ecuestre de Luis XIV, de la que se dice que los edificios aledaños no podían sobrepasar la altura del brazo extendido del monarca. Al final del paseo un templo que imita el estilo corintio fue erigido sobre una plataforma desde donde se ve, a lo lejos, el Mediterráneo y también el acueducto Arceaux, de la misma época, que suministraba agua potable a la ciudad.

Son innombrables los sitios que podemos visitar durante una estancia en esta ciudad joven y estudiantil. Algunos de ellos fuera del centro, como los castillos de Mogère y de Flaugergues, el proyecto urbano Antigone del arquitecto español Ricardo Boffil o el taller museo Fernand-Michel, completamente dedicado al arte bruto.

Y para ello, Montpellier dispone de una excelente red de tranvías que interconectan todos sus barrios, convirtiendo al centro de esta ciudad de 270 mil habitantes en un gran espacio peatonal donde se respira aire puro sin las molestias que suelen ocasionar el ruido y el humo de los vehículos.

William Navarrete es escritor franco-cubano establecido en Francia.

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